Applying vinyl lettering and graphics is easy, and no prior experience is required. See the OVERVIEW below for a quick explanation, or browse our detailed instructions.
[Installation Problem? See Troubleshooting]
| (Step 1) Level lettering strip
and apply tape along top edge.
| (Step 2) Flip lettering up and
remove backing paper.
| (Step 3) Flip lettering back down
and press lettering to the wall.
| (Step 4) Remove transfer tape
leaving lettering in place.
(IMPORTANT! Do not attempt to apply vinyl lettering to a freshly painted wall.
The vinyl manufacturer recommends paint cures for 3 weeks before wall lettering is applied to it. Also, the minimum application temperature of the room where you’re applying the lettering or if applying outdoors is 50˚ F or warmer)
|Everything you’ll need for installation:|
|(1) For ease of application this step is important! With the lettering on a smooth surface (facing up and readable) use the included plastic applicator to rub across all of the lettering various times. Work over the lettering horizontally and vertically.|
|(2) Make sure to clean the surface where you’re installing the lettering. The application surface must be non-porous, smooth, dry, dust-free and grease-free. If it’s in the kitchen we recommend wiping the surface with glass cleaner (it degreases & leaves no residue). Allow the area to dry thoroughly.
Using a level or straight-edge, make 2 small pencil marks 12” apart or wider (as your phrase width allows) on a level line. These marks will determine the lay of your lettering so it’s critical they’re on a straight line and level. (if you don’t want to mark your wall use 2 pieces of tape as your marks)
|(3) Align the TOP of the lettering strip with the reference marks. (Do not align the reference marks with the bottom of the strip.) Apply multiple pieces of tape along the top of the strip to create a “hinge” for the lettering (as pictured).
Hint: Be careful when erasing your reference marks, too much erasing can leave a shiny spot on the wall.
(Installing a wide phrase requires a special technique. If your lettering strip is wider than 36 inches see Wide Lettering Strip)
|(4) Grip the lettering from the bottom and swing the strip up 180 degrees on the masking tape “hinge” you just created. When you’re finished the strip should be upside down, flat against the wall with the grid-marked backing facing you.|
|(5) Starting from a corner separate the thick waxy backing paper from the transfer tape/lettering by doubling the paper over on itself creating a tight bend at the point where it releases from the transfer tape/lettering, and sliding it downward and away. (If you’re having any difficulty with this step see Backing Paper Not Coming Off)|
|(6) Once you have completely removed the backing paper, swing the lettering 180 degrees back down so that the adhesive side of the lettering is resting lightly against the wall. Starting in the center, press the lettering to the wall with your hands, slowly sliding from the center outward in all directions. After the first pass, take a few moments to go over the lettering with your hands pressing all the characters firmly to the wall. You may also use the plastic applicator to rub over the lettering for best adhesion.|
|(7) Remove the pieces of masking tape that form your “hinge”. Start in a corner and grip the transfer tape and just as you did with the backing paper, double the mask over on itself tightly and slide it down and away as pictured. If the transfer tape begins to lift a letter off the wall, carefully press the lettering and transfer tape back to the wall at that specific point. Press firmly on the problem spot with your thumb. Begin again to peel down and away making sure to double the mask over on itself as tightly as possible at the point where it’s releasing from the lettering. (If you’re having any difficulty with this step see Lettering Sticking To Transfer Tape)|
|(8) Closely examine the lettering to see if any edges are lifting off the wall or if there are any air bubbles under the vinyl. Press the vinyl edges to the wall if they’re lifted up anywhere. You can usually work air bubbles out pushing them toward the letter’s edge with your finger. If this isn’t possible you can lightly prick the bubble with a pin and press the air out of the bubble via the pinhole. You won’t be able to see the pinhole once the air is out. Now step back and enjoy your new lettering!|
|Here we have a lettering strip that is 67″ (about 5.5 feet) wide. Trying to remove all the backing at once would be inconvenient or even impossible. Segmenting the job into several smaller jobs is the way to successfully apply this lettering to the wall.
After the lettering strip is taped in place with multiple pieces of tape, you can take scissors and cut between words at smaller, more manageable invervals (see the dotted lines). Make sure that each individual segment has at least 3 tape “hinges” to support it.
HINT: It’s very important that as you remove the backing and apply each segment to the wall you don’t pull the tape “hinges” off the wall. Those “hinges” are keeping each segment aligned with it’s neighbors. If you pull a segment’s “hinges” off the wall it may end up misaligned. 3 pieces of tape per segment is the minimum needed.
|Cut between words to create smaller segments.||Apply each segment individually.|
SYMPTOM: You’re trying to remove the backing paper as directed in step 5 of the installation instructions but the lettering won’t release from the backing paper.
| (1) Hang your lettering strip on the
wall with tape “hinges” along the
top edge as pictured.
|(2) Grip the strip by the bottom edge.|
| (3) Swing lettering upward on tape
“hinge” 180 degrees.
| (4) Lettering will now be facing the
wall and the grid pattern on the
backing will be facing you.
| (5) Peel about 1 inch of backing
away from the transfer tape in the
upper left corner.
| (6) Place a piece of masking tape
across the transfer tape leaving the
backing free. repeat this same step
in the upper right corner so the strip
is now secured to the wall at all 4
corners. This will free both of your
hands to remove the backing paper.
Instinctively you’ll want to just grab
a corner and pull the transfer tape
toward yourself. DON’T DO THIS!! The
bond between the lettering and
backing may be too strong to release
| (7) Fold the backing paper completely
over on itself and slide the paper
downward as indicated by the arrow.
Contrast the way the paper is folded
over on itself above with the way it’s
being pulled away (not folded over)
in the WARNING! slide to the left.
| (8) Notice her left thumb is lightly
pressing the backing to the wall
creating a tight bend where the
backing is releasing from the vinyl.
This is the secret! If a letter isn’t
releasing push the backing back on
at that point, then tighten the bend
and slide it down again.
SYMPTOM: You’re trying to remove the transfer tape as directed in step 7 of the installation instructions but the lettering remains stuck to the transfer tape and won’t stick to the wall.
|Instinctively most of us just want to grab a corner of the transfer tape and pull directly toward ourselves (as pictured above)…
DON’T DO THIS!
The bond between the lettering and the transfer tape may be too strong to release this way.
|Fold the transfer tape completely over on itself and slide the mask downward as indicated by the arrow. Contrast the way the transfer tape is folded over on itself above with the way it’s being pulled directly away from the wall in the previous slide.|
|If after following the technique above you are still having trouble gettting the transfer tape to release from the lettering do the following. Get a rag, wet it, then wring it out. Wipe the mask down thoroughly with the damp rag. Wait a couple minutes then remove the mask using the technique mentioned in the previous step.
The adhesive in the mask is water soluable and the mask itself is porous. The moisture will soak through the mask and start to break down the adhesive on the mask, while leaving the adhesive on the non-porous lettering unaffected. You will find the transfer tape is much more flexible and pliable when it’s wet and it will come off relatively easily as you follow the removal technique mentioned above.